Questions

This is a hard to print testfile!
often you don't know if your printer is ready for complex files. with this file you have an easy option to check problematic printing/slicing stuff.
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ctrlv
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Posts: 30
Joined: Wed Sep 16, 2015 9:09 pm

Questions

Postby ctrlv » Thu Sep 17, 2015 12:49 am

if you have any questions please post these infos.

- printer brand
- printer model
- print material
- print temperature(s)
- layerheight
- slicer including version
- printer connection (USB/SD/LAN)

there could be a lot of things go wrong, here the most common ones

your printbed is not leveled (should be better than layerheigth you're printing, e.g use a Micrometre)
your axis (Y/X/Z) clearence (with higher speed you also get problems with the moving mass)
your slicer and configuration (every slicer handles things different and could contain bugs)
retract settings (not correctly set you will see blobs or holes on every retract position)
to high temperature (small details will get overheated)
to reach this time, your printer should run between 60-200mm/s, infill as fast as possible. not every printer works in this range, so try to figure out where you're printer limit is.
text is hard to read > use a smaller nozzle/other slicer
just print it!
Falango
Posts: 0
Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2015 12:28 am

Re: Questions

Postby Falango » Mon Oct 12, 2015 12:45 am

First, thanks for making a test model to use, it's a great little model that is quick to test!

Attached a picture, would like some feedback on what should be changed to get better results. Settings were as follows:

Rigodbot Big, Simplify 3D software
ABS printed at 230 C, heated bed at 70 C (had previously tried at 65 C, much better adhesion at 70 C)
Printed via USB
Extruder .4mm
Extrusion width .29mm
Primary layer height .11mm
Infill 20%
Printing speed 3200mm/min

Analyzing the print myself, the solid surfaces seem quite good, but the overhang test has problems with what seems like retraction. I also wonder about the volume of the print. I haven't tested an M4 nut, as I don't have any at the moment, but reading the M4 and ctrlV text, I don't see enough of a gap in the holes. I only have the 5 thickest walls as well, as the software wouldn't even show the 2 thinnest in the preview and sim of the print. There is also no gap in the base between any of the gaps near the walls, except for the .7mm one. .6mm has some gaps, but not through the entire base. The top surface is also a little bumpy.

Any help would be great!

Here is a picture of the print.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-FEYA ... hnMlk/view

Thanks!
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ctrlv
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Posts: 30
Joined: Wed Sep 16, 2015 9:09 pm

Re: Questions

Postby ctrlv » Mon Oct 12, 2015 10:01 pm

Hi Falango

nice to hear, thanks.

first thing in mind is the low bed temperature, try to get 100-130C°.
if possible always print from sd card.

the extrusion width (0.29) is small, to make things easy, try 0.5 mm extrusion width (EW). (less thinkering about wallthickness in parts)
why such a uneven number for the layerheight (LH) ? is the threaded screw not ready for other LH?
you can try to use 0.1mm (LH) and 0.22 EW. its not easy to reach since you're dealing with almost no extrusion...

the retraction should be higher (also depends on temperature from ABS)

the wall test depends on the extrusion width, some slicer try to print thinner walls. some just ignore them.
your slicer and printer should print from the 0.3mm wall upwards

if there is no gap it seems you feed to much material. (or your hardware has positioning issues)
measure the size of the test , should be 50x30x2mm
with the correct amount of feeded ABS, the bumps on the surface should be gone.

happy printing!

ctrlV
just print it!
bradjshannon
Posts: 0
Joined: Fri Oct 23, 2015 12:27 am

Re: Questions

Postby bradjshannon » Fri Oct 23, 2015 1:16 am

- printer brand: Solidoodle
- printer model: 2nd gen "pro"
- print material: PLA 1.75mm MakerBot white
- print temperature(s): various
- layerheight: 0.1mm
- slicer including version: slic3r v1.2.9
- printer connection (USB/SD/LAN): USB



Hey, thanks for making this awesome test model. I've printed four so far with mixed results.

I have about 2 days of experience with 3d printing. I have no tools for calibration and am playing with a "broken" printer from work that I got working again. Prior prints (keychains, etc.) all used LH of 0.3mm. I don't think the stock extruder/nozzle can handle the fine details of 0.1mm prints without proper calibration, if ever.

You'll probably recognize what's going wrong from the photos, but here are the variables, mostly slicer settings, changed for each test:


~~~~~~~~~~~
1st trial: http://ldhk.org/img/Screenshot_10_22_15 ... D9BDE8.png

LH: 0.1mm
1st LH: 0.3mm
allow extra perim? Y
avoid cross perim? N
detect thin walls? Y
detect bridge? Y
seam position: align
infill: 33%
generate supports? Y <-- mistake
extruder temp: 175/175
bed temp: 65/60 <-- I tried printing other things on a cold bed, model came unstuck
flow multiplier: 110% <-- I've noticed gaps in "solid" fills so thought this might help.


~~~~~~~~~~~~
2nd trial: http://ldhk.org/img/Screenshot_10_22_15 ... D9BF57.png

LH: 0.1mm
1st LH: 0.3mm
allow extra perim? N <-- changed for science
avoid cross perim? N
detect thin walls? Y
detect bridge? Y
seam position: random <-- changed for science
infill: 33%
generate supports? N <-- THIS IS THE BIG DIFFERENCE BTWN 1st and 2nd
extruder temp: 175/175
bed temp: 65/60
flow multiplier: 115% <-- changed for science


~~~~~~~~~~~
3rd trial: http://ldhk.org/img/Screenshot_10_22_15 ... D9C1AC.png

LH: 0.1mm
1st LH: 0.3mm
allow extra perim? Y <-- changed back, not noticeable in this print
avoid cross perim? N
detect thin walls? Y
detect bridge? Y
seam position: aligned <-- changed back because random is ugly
infill: 33%
generate supports? N
extruder temp: 170/170 <-- THIS IS THE BIG DIFFERENCE BTWN 2nd and 3rd
bed temp: 65/60
flow multiplier: 100% <--- back to normal


~~~~~~~~~~
4th trial: http://ldhk.org/img/Screenshot_10_22_15 ... D9C1CF.png

LH: 0.1mm
1st LH: 0.2mm <--- changed for science, will change back to 0.3 or more
allow extra perim? Y
avoid cross perim? N
detect thin walls? Y
detect bridge? Y
seam position: aligned
infill: 33%
generate supports? N
extruder temp: 165/165 <-- THIS IS THE BIG DIFFERENCE BTWN 3rd and 4th
bed temp: 65/60
flow multiplier: 100%

added z-retraction of 0.5mm for science, will change back to default




5th trial printing now!
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ctrlv
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Posts: 30
Joined: Wed Sep 16, 2015 9:09 pm

Re: Questions

Postby ctrlv » Fri Oct 23, 2015 11:04 pm

Hi bradjshannon

nice to see you here.
it seems the retraction is to low.
check if the extrusion widht is 0.48mm

ctrlV


bradjshannon wrote:- printer brand: Solidoodle
- printer model: 2nd gen "pro"
- print material: PLA 1.75mm MakerBot white
- print temperature(s): various
- layerheight: 0.1mm
- slicer including version: slic3r v1.2.9
- printer connection (USB/SD/LAN): USB



Hey, thanks for making this awesome test model. I've printed four so far with mixed results.

I have about 2 days of experience with 3d printing. I have no tools for calibration and am playing with a "broken" printer from work that I got working again. Prior prints (keychains, etc.) all used LH of 0.3mm. I don't think the stock extruder/nozzle can handle the fine details of 0.1mm prints without proper calibration, if ever.

You'll probably recognize what's going wrong from the photos, but here are the variables, mostly slicer settings, changed for each test:


~~~~~~~~~~~
1st trial: http://ldhk.org/img/Screenshot_10_22_15 ... D9BDE8.png

LH: 0.1mm
1st LH: 0.3mm
allow extra perim? Y
avoid cross perim? N
detect thin walls? Y
detect bridge? Y
seam position: align
infill: 33%
generate supports? Y <-- mistake
extruder temp: 175/175
bed temp: 65/60 <-- I tried printing other things on a cold bed, model came unstuck
flow multiplier: 110% <-- I've noticed gaps in "solid" fills so thought this might help.


~~~~~~~~~~~~
2nd trial: http://ldhk.org/img/Screenshot_10_22_15 ... D9BF57.png

LH: 0.1mm
1st LH: 0.3mm
allow extra perim? N <-- changed for science
avoid cross perim? N
detect thin walls? Y
detect bridge? Y
seam position: random <-- changed for science
infill: 33%
generate supports? N <-- THIS IS THE BIG DIFFERENCE BTWN 1st and 2nd
extruder temp: 175/175
bed temp: 65/60
flow multiplier: 115% <-- changed for science


~~~~~~~~~~~
3rd trial: http://ldhk.org/img/Screenshot_10_22_15 ... D9C1AC.png

LH: 0.1mm
1st LH: 0.3mm
allow extra perim? Y <-- changed back, not noticeable in this print
avoid cross perim? N
detect thin walls? Y
detect bridge? Y
seam position: aligned <-- changed back because random is ugly
infill: 33%
generate supports? N
extruder temp: 170/170 <-- THIS IS THE BIG DIFFERENCE BTWN 2nd and 3rd
bed temp: 65/60
flow multiplier: 100% <--- back to normal


~~~~~~~~~~
4th trial: http://ldhk.org/img/Screenshot_10_22_15 ... D9C1CF.png

LH: 0.1mm
1st LH: 0.2mm <--- changed for science, will change back to 0.3 or more
allow extra perim? Y
avoid cross perim? N
detect thin walls? Y
detect bridge? Y
seam position: aligned
infill: 33%
generate supports? N
extruder temp: 165/165 <-- THIS IS THE BIG DIFFERENCE BTWN 3rd and 4th
bed temp: 65/60
flow multiplier: 100%

added z-retraction of 0.5mm for science, will change back to default




5th trial printing now!
just print it!
thumperj
Posts: 0
Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2015 10:43 pm

Re: Questions

Postby thumperj » Fri Nov 27, 2015 11:16 pm

Yikes, my test print looks terrible! Any advice?

- printer brand: Makerbot Replicator 2
- print material: PLA
- print temperature(s): 230C
- layer height: Standard: 0.20 High: 0.10
- slicer including version: MakerBot software v 3.7.0.148
- printer connection (USB/SD/LAN): SD card

The image gallery contain image from two prints:
- one at high quality
- one at standard quality

It also contains screen captures of the printer setup panels but only for the standard quality.

Prior to the print, I painstakingly leveled the bed using the 0.80 mm guide.
Notice the brown spots in the high-quality print. Those appear often in the standard print, too.

Any tips would be much appreciated.

Gallery: http://imgur.com/a/CrDz1
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ctrlv
Site Admin
Posts: 30
Joined: Wed Sep 16, 2015 9:09 pm

Re: Questions

Postby ctrlv » Mon Nov 30, 2015 3:16 pm

Hello thumperj

printing temp seems quite high, did you try lower temperatures?
it seems there are more strings with the high quality print, is there any difference with retraction?
retraction seems to be too low > fine strings between walls. (spped up and/or use more distance)
did you try printing with raft?
the HQ print is missing stuff on top of the M4 nut, any ideas what happen there?
the minimum distance walls are not fully filled, maybe the extrusion width is to small.
the bridges in the med quality could use more cooling.

often it helps watching the print for curious behavior.

hope this helps.
ctrlV

thumperj wrote:Yikes, my test print looks terrible! Any advice?

- printer brand: Makerbot Replicator 2
- print material: PLA
- print temperature(s): 230C
- layer height: Standard: 0.20 High: 0.10
- slicer including version: MakerBot software v 3.7.0.148
- printer connection (USB/SD/LAN): SD card

The image gallery contain image from two prints:
- one at high quality
- one at standard quality

It also contains screen captures of the printer setup panels but only for the standard quality.

Prior to the print, I painstakingly leveled the bed using the 0.80 mm guide.
Notice the brown spots in the high-quality print. Those appear often in the standard print, too.

Any tips would be much appreciated.

Gallery: http://imgur.com/a/CrDz1
just print it!
bigo93
Posts: 0
Joined: Tue Dec 08, 2015 10:55 pm

Re: Questions

Postby bigo93 » Tue Dec 08, 2015 11:19 pm

Just bought my first 3D printer and thought I'd test it with your test print.

Printer is basically out of the box with no calibration done or upgrades, just base leveling.

Printer Brand: CTC 3D Printer
Print Material: PLA 1.75mm
Print Temp: Extruder 220, Bed 110
Layer Height: 0.1mm
printer connection: SD Card

Using ReplicatorG, with Replicator 2 slicing defaults.
Infill 33%
# of shells: 1
Feedrate mm/s: 41
Travel Feedrate: 56
Print Temp: 175

So here I set temp to 175, yet printer showed the extruder was at 220, not sure why.


Since I'm new with 3D printers, I had to do a few things after leveling the base, including turning the printer on and off several times before replicatorg would detect it. So question is would I have had to redo the leveling as well?

Any tips on improvements welcome.

From what I've seen I am looking to making some support brackets for the y axis bars
Maybe get some bronze bushings to replace the roller bearings.
And maybe a quieter fan or psu, cos many it is so loud even when idle!


Anyhow here are a couple photos, for first prints I think they are OK when compared to some others.

http://imgur.com/a/gvKaL
User avatar
ctrlv
Site Admin
Posts: 30
Joined: Wed Sep 16, 2015 9:09 pm

Re: Questions

Postby ctrlv » Sat Dec 12, 2015 3:07 pm

check your gcode for temperature seettings, should look something like "M104 S175 T0"
M104 Snn set temperature in degrees Celsius.
i think ReplicatorG is no longer under development. maybe there are other firmware that works with your printer.

if the leveling is done in hardware you do not have to relevel.

all things that enhance the printer are usefull.



bigo93 wrote:Just bought my first 3D printer and thought I'd test it with your test print.

Printer is basically out of the box with no calibration done or upgrades, just base leveling.

Printer Brand: CTC 3D Printer
Print Material: PLA 1.75mm
Print Temp: Extruder 220, Bed 110
Layer Height: 0.1mm
printer connection: SD Card

Using ReplicatorG, with Replicator 2 slicing defaults.
Infill 33%
# of shells: 1
Feedrate mm/s: 41
Travel Feedrate: 56
Print Temp: 175

So here I set temp to 175, yet printer showed the extruder was at 220, not sure why.


Since I'm new with 3D printers, I had to do a few things after leveling the base, including turning the printer on and off several times before replicatorg would detect it. So question is would I have had to redo the leveling as well?

Any tips on improvements welcome.

From what I've seen I am looking to making some support brackets for the y axis bars
Maybe get some bronze bushings to replace the roller bearings.
And maybe a quieter fan or psu, cos many it is so loud even when idle!


Anyhow here are a couple photos, for first prints I think they are OK when compared to some others.

http://imgur.com/a/gvKaL
just print it!

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